WE KNOW TURF: Sod Laying Tips
Premium turf grass... beautiful turf instantly!
Looking for a fast, simple, and, yes, economical way to instantly transform a bare patch of ground into a lush turf grass carpet? Beautiful, healthy turf grass is the answer.
Looking for turf grass with the best quality, best value, and the best availability? We've got the answer to that too - premium turf grass from Woerner Turf.
We're leading the way in quality, value and availability, thanks to our dedication to a quality product, to intense research and development, and to the recruitment of people who are trained and experienced in the art and science of growing top-quality turf grass.
We grow turf grass from genetically pure planting stock in all types of soils that are known to encourage development of healthy, vigorous turf that is:
Clean. Because we use the latest technology and regularly sterilize the soil on which our turf grass is grown, you can be confident that only those varieties you request will be growing in your turf grass when it arrives.
Pest and Disease Free.
Fresh. Since our production facilities are strategically located, we can deliver your sod when and where you need it, often in less than 24 hours.
Well Placed. If you require it, your turf grass can be unloaded with our mechanical unloader as near to your work site as possible.
The "How To's" of Laying Sod: Sod Selection
By this time you probably have decided what type of turf grass you wish to put in and the exact area you want to cover (in case you haven't selected a type, refer to our varieties). The turf grass you purchase from Woerner Turf will come either as individual squares or in large rolls.
Soil Preparation
- Proper soil prepartion is essential to the success of your turf grass installation. If possible, you should begin by loosening the soil to a depth of from 2 to 6 inches. This can be done with a rototiller, garden tractor, disc, spading fork, or shovel.
- Level low spots and make slopes as gentle as possible. Rake out all old vegetation and any other objects that might present a problem in leveling After final raking or smoothing, apply 1 to 2 pounds of mixed fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft. and rake-in or mix with the soil to a depth of 1 to 2 inches. (Your county agent can determine present soil pH conditions).
NOTE: Do not use lime for Centipede turf.
- If soil is loose, use a roller to firm it and reveal any high or that need final leveling prior to laying the turf grass.
- A day or so before your turf grass is to arrive, thoroughly moisten the soil to a depth of three to four inches. The soil should be moist but not muddy before sodding.
IMPORTANT: Lay your turf grass as soon as possible after it arrives.
Maintenance of St. Augustine
New or mature turf grass needs regular moisture to thrive and flourish. Consider summer rainfall in determining your irrigation schedule. However, do not over water. St. Augustine grass is very sensitive to blight and fungus during the months of July - September. Soil that is too moist combined with the hot temps create a perfect environment for blight and fungus. It is crucial that new St. Augustine is treated with a fungicide, such as, Ortho Garden Disease Control (formerly Daconil) Or Spectracide Immunox. For more info: Go to ortho.com or Spectracide.com.
Proper irrigation methods are crucial for a successful turf grass project. Lightly water the area to be sodded before the grass is laid, this cools the topsoil and provides Immediate moisture for the turf. Turn on the sprinklers right after the new grass is laid. Do not let the new grass dry out. During the first hree - four days, water your grass in short, frequent periods (10 minute periods, 5 - 6 times / day). Your new grass does not have a root system that reaches into the soil; therefore, it is unable to retrieve water below the top surface. As time goes on, the roots will reach deeper into the soil. This will allow you to irrigate longer, with less frequency. Environmental conditions determine the amount of water that your grass will need as it matures. Appearance of the grass / topsoil and common sense are the best barometers. Do not allow the grass blades to curl and do not allow excess moisture to buildup in the Topsoil. Apply fungicide to St. Augustine based on the product label during the hot, humid months of July, August, September for the first 3 years. After 3 years, mature St. Augustine will usually develop a natural resistance to blight and fungus.
For more info, log on to Turfgrass Producers International @ www.turfgrasssod.org.
How to Lay turf grass
- Determine exactly how much turf grass you need and where you will use it before you order. Allow 10% extra turf grass for trimming and fitting around irregular areas. Also be sure to have enough help on hand to get all the turf grass installed and watered within 24 hours of delivery (even less in extremely hot or dry weather).
- Carefully plan and mark where you want the pallets of turf grass placed on your site. You'll save time by not carrying sod all around your yard.
- Important: If the weather is hot and soil temperatures are high, give the soil a light sprinkling with water to cool the surface before laying the sod. Soil heated by the bright summer sun can damage the tender roots of freshly cut turf grass.
- Begin laying the turf grass along the longest straight edge - such as a driveway, curb, etc. All edges and seams should be tightly butted together. Joints between pieces will be scarcely noticeable if firmly joined. Avoid standing or kneeling directly on the turf grass, as this can leave indentations in the soft, moist soil underneath.
- The turf grass may be easily cut with a sharp knife to fit closely around the contours of trees, shrubs, buildings, drive and walk ways. Avoid small pieces which don't hold moisture.
- After the turf grass is in place, the entire freshly sodded surface area should be lightly rolled to insure a smooth surface.
- When you have laid an area of turf grass large enough for your sprinkler or irrigation system, begin watering that area immediately.
- Water your new turf grass twice daily for the first two weeks to help assure the sod is firmly rooted in the soil. Be sure to check watering depth to be certain it reaches down at least three inches. As the roots take hold, you can taper off watering to once per day, then once every other day, then as needed.
Woerner Turf Offers Many Services to Complement its Top-Quality turf grasses
Want more information? Need expert advice? Helping you select the best grassing method for your specific application is one of our many complimentary services.
Sodding provides complete, uniform coverage, instant beauty and maturity, immediate runoff and erosion control, reduces water requirements during grow-in, and requires minimal weed control.
Sprigging is an economical means of covering broad surfaces, particularly large areas. Cover times range from 10 weeks to 6 months, depending on turf variety and timing.
Row planting, requires little soil preparation and permits uniform transition to a preferred hybrid turf grass surface or renovation from winter damage, without closing down during planting or grow-in.
Changing the way turf grass installation is handled...
Today, "Big Rolls" of sod up to thirty inches wide and holding up to 270 to 400 square feet or more of turf grass are moved, positioned, and laid practically as fast as a man can can walk using track-mounted machines no bigger than the average walk-behind commercial mower.
Three- or four-man crews using Big Roll technology can install twice as much sod per day as a 10-man crew laying sod by hand.
The number of seams is reduced 30% or more and sod fits together better, with far less handwork and adjustment.
Big Roll sod technology is among the many grassing services available by calling Woerner Turf.
Creating a perfect lawn, sports field, fairway, green, or you-name-it with our top-quality turf grasses is as easy as a toll-free phone call to Woerner Turf. Want to know more about how we can help you with your planting project?
Call: 800-541-6483
What Is A Weed?
Webster defines a weed as a plant of no value, a plant of detrimental quality, or any plant growing out of place, where it is not desired.
Most weeds possess a vigorous capacity for growth and survival under adverse conditions. Some weeds are found nationwide, while others adapt themselves only to certain areas of the country. Research has given us the means to selectively control, chemically, a large majority of these pests.
Most weeds in lawns come from seeds present in the soil. These seeds can remain inactive 50 years or more if for some reason they don't receive the conditions they need for growth. Generally, when the soil is cultivated for planting or repairing bare spots, the weed seeds then receive the warmth, light and moisture they need to germinate and mature.
Topsoils, manures and composts usually contain an abundance of weed seeds. A new crop of weeds can be expected whenever these additives are used. The possibility of introducing weeds in to the soil from sterilized soil, properly cleaned lawn seed, or fertilizer, is practically non-existent.
There are two main types of selective herbicides commonly used in lawn care. One group is the pre-emergent type that prevents the seed of annual grass-type weeds like crabgrass from growing. The other group is the postemergent type that doesn't prevent the seed from developing, but destroys the weeds after they are actively growing in the lawn.
Pre-Emergence herbicides are basically soil-applied materials that create a chemical blanket or barrier at the soil surface. These herbicides are used predominately to control annual weeds in turf grass areas. The herbicide is absorbed by the germinating seed or by the young shoot and/or root of emerging weeds.
Ideally, all pre-emergence turf herbicides should be applied one to two weeks prior to weed germination. Soil temperatures can be a reliable guide to predict the germination time of Summer annual grasses. Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures near the surface reach 55 to 60 degrees for several consecutive nights.
Biological indicators, such as certain flowering plants, are desirable in timing pre-emergence turf herbicide applications because soil temperature and moisture conditions vary from year to year.
All pre-emergence turf herbicides should be watered into the root zone soil where weed seeds are located to minimize loss from volatilization and photo-decomposition.
Soil longevity of the pre-emergence turf herbicides is not equal. Factors such as volatilization, degradation by ultraviolet light, microbial decomposition, and chemical decomposition, which are influenced by soil type, moisture content, temperature, microflora and method of application, affect disappearance of herbicides in the soil.
Pre-emergence herbicides are effective tools that provide good weed control and good safety when used judiciously and at reasonable rates. Post-emergence herbicides such as used in Warren's 25-3-3 Weed & Feed destroys weeds after thay are growing. The materials are dry, granular formulation and are applied ideally with a drop-type spreader. These materials must be applied to the foliage of the weeds so it will be absorbed into the plants. For optimum control, apply when foliage is wet from dew or sprinkling. Warren's 25-3-3 Weed & Feed is also effective when applied to a dry lawn. It is important for the granules to stick to weed leaves rather than fall to the soil. Use when daytime temperatures are between 50 and 80 degrees. Apply with a properly calibrated spreader. Use on a calm day so granules don't drift onto flowers and shrubs. Don't apply when rain is expected within 24 hours and withhold watering for 24 hours to avoid working the particles off the weed leaves.
Don't use on newly seeded or sodded lawns. Remember, these products don't work overnight. While leaves and stems should begin to twist and curl in just a few days, actively growing weeds will die out slowly. A month or more of good growing weatner may be required for complete control.
This product will not prevent weed seeds in the soil from producing new plants. Always follow label instructions.
Lawn Watering
A practical watering program embodies three basic concepts. Each concept may be set forth as a question?
- How should water be applied?
- How much water should be applied?
- How often?
While basic concepts of a good irrigation program may appear simple, in actual practice such a program is complex.
The amount of water to apply at any one time will depend upon the water-holding capacity of the soil, the infiltration rate, the amount of soil moisture present when irrigation is started, and the drainage from the area watered.
Sandy soils must be watered more frequently than loam or clay soils. A sufficient amount of moisture should be applied to wet the entire root zone. Once the soil is wet throughout the root zone, any additional water applied will merely fill the large soil pores and be "excess".
The soil organic matter is a major factor in turf grass growth and development because it contributes to improved soil structure, aeration, water retention, water movement, and nutrient availability. The addition of organic matter may substantially improve the water-holding capacity of the soil.
Frequency of irrigation depends on type of grass, the soil's physical properties, and climatic conditions - especially rainfall, humidity, temperature and wind movement.
Many turf grass problems are the result of improper watering. Adequate water is essential for maintaining optimum growth, density and color. Natural rainfall is generally adequate during the cool Spring and Fall periods; however, extended drought periods during Summer may cause the grass to wilt and turn brown. Although it may look unattractive, a lawn that is brown and dormant in Summer will usually recover with the return of cool weather.
If a high quality appearance is desired throughout the season, the lawn should be irrigated as soon as the grass shows signs of wilting. Apply enough water to moisten the soil to a depth of at least six inches. This will develop a deep root system which can better survive drought. In regions of high Summer temperatures it may be necessary to irrigate the lawn several times a week. It is important that sprinklers deliver a uniform amount of water over the area covered by the sprinkler throw. You can check your sprinkler output by placing a row of one pound coffee cans (or any cans of equal size) in a line at one to two foot intervals from the sprinkler to the point of furthest throw. By allowing the sprinkler to run for a given time (1 /2 to 1 hour), the amount of water in each container can be measured and these results plotted to show the distribution pattern and application rate of that particular sprinkler. This procedure should be used at a time other than during periods of peak community water use when water pressure may be lower than normal.
Poor water distribution also can be caused by leaving a stationary sprinkler in one area too long. This can be overcome by using a traveling sprinkler that moves over the area at a uniform pace.
Sound water practice should provide for proper distribution of water, permit good water infiltration, encourage sufficient water retention in the soil to support plant growth without irrigation for a reasonable time, and provide for the removal or drainage of excess water. Finally, an effective watering program should provide only as much water as is needed by the turf grass plants to produce healthy, vigorous, wear-resistant turf.
Fertilizing
A dense green carpet of grass is the basis of most home landscaping plans. Without this rich green, even the most perfect tree and shrub specimens will not show to the best of their ability, nor will the house itself. In addition to its aesthetic value, a well-kept lawn has many practical functions. It holds the soil in place and reduces dust and mud tracked into the house. It provides a cooler setting for the house by reducing glare and reflected heat from the sun. It serves as a family recreation area and reduces the risk of injuries.
A regular lawn fertilization program is necessary to maintain a good quality lawn. Dollar for dollar, proper fertilization will do more to improve poor quality lawns or maintain good quality lawns than any other single management practice.
The best approach to the establishment of an adequate fertilization program is to have a soil test made, although soil tests must not be regarded as a panacea for poor quality lawns. Soil tests are one of the tools for determining an intelligent fertilizer program. For instance, it is impossible to look at turf and determine if it has a phosphorous or potassium deficiency, even though it is obvious that the grass is not growing satisfactorily.
The best indicator of plant nitrogen status is the appearance of the plant. A thin, chloratic turf stand often results from lack of nitrogen; and dense, green turf indicates ample nitrogen. A fast-growing, dark green, very dense turf stand may mean excessive nitrogen.
When corrective measures are undertaken, do not expect to correct the deficiency immediately. In some cases, regular fertilizer application may be required for several years. Usually, however, nutrient balance can be achieved in a much shorter time. By correcting soil nutrient deficiency problems through proper fertilization, you can develop a more balanced maintenance fertilizer program.
Cool season grasses (Kentucky bluegrass, fine-leaved fescues, tall fescue, perennial ryegrass, and bentgrasses) make their maximum growth during periods of cool, moist weather and may become dormant or semi-dormant during hot weather months.
Warm season grasses (bermudagrass, centipede grass, carpet grass, bahia grass, St. Augustine grass and zoysia grass) make their maximum growth during periods of high temperatures and normally go dormant during the cooler periods of the year.
Fertilizer requirements will vary with the species and/or variety of turf grass; the soil physical and chemical conditions (texture, structure, compaction, PH, inherent fertility), climatic conditions (temperature, rainfall, length of growing season), the use to which the turf is subjected, and other management practices.
Among the cool season grasses, turf-type perennial ryegrasses, Kentucky bluegrass, and especially some of the improved cultivars, have high nutrient requirements, whereas slower growing, fine-leaved fescues (red, chewings, hard and tall fescue) have lower needs for many nutrients. Bermuda grass, especially the improved cultivars, has a very high nutrient requirement especially for nitrogen; St. Augustine grass and zoysia grass have medium requirements; and the centipede grass, carpet grass and bahia grass are slow growing, low fertility, warm season species.
FERTILIZING MATERIALS
An ideal fertilizer program should provide uniform grass growth over the entire growing season. Although the ideal is seldom reached due to temperature and moisture fluctuations, proper choice of the right type of nitrogen material in a fertilizer, along with the correct rate and frequency of application, are important in moving towards this ideal.
Basically, nitrogen materials are divided into two broad groups - those which are quickly available to the plant and those which are slowly available. It is important to note that quality turf grass can be produced with either type of nitrogen, provided that the nitrogen is applied in the proper amounts and frequencies.
The quickly available nitrogen materials are water soluble, and, once in the root zone, the nitrogen is readily available to the plants, provided there is adequate soil moisture. This fast release action allows weak turf top recover quickly. It may be necessary to make frequent, light applications of the quickly available nitrogen fertilizers in order to maintain a uniform growth over the growing season.
Slowly available nitrogen fertilizer materials which contain IBDU or SCU release a portion of their nitrogen over relatively long time periods. These materials depend upon physical and/or chemical process to provide nitrogen in a form available to the plant.
As a general rule, cool season grasses require approximately four pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per season. Warm season grasses have a much wider range of nitrogen requirements than do cool season grasses. The difference in length of growing season in regions of warm season grass adaptation accounts, in part, for the wide range of nitrogen requirements, especially for Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass.
Efficient use of nitrogen fertilizer can be achieved only if the turf manager knows the growth habit and needs of his turf, understands the characteristics of the different nitrogen carriers, reduces any possible nitrogen losses and evaluates each application to make any necessary adjustments. In short, a systems approach is necessary when dealing with the interrelationship of plants, soil and fertilizer.
Fall Fertilizing
Traditionally, turf grass managers have applied fertilizer during spring and fall using color and the amount of leaf growth as a guide to the rate and frequency of application.
Although promoting good color and stimulating shoot growth are important objectives, frequently overlooked are nutrient influences on carbohydrate reserves, root growth and the plant's ability to tolerate disease and environmental stress. An understanding of the impact of fertilizer applications on these factors can give refinement to a fertilization program.
TIMING APPLICATIONS
An important objective in timing fertilizer applications should be to build carbohydrate reserves and promote root development. The response of warm-season and cool-season turf grasses differ in this respect.
COOL-SEASON GRASSES
The predominant cool-season turf grasses (bluegrass, perennial ryegrass, fescue and bentgrass) initiate and develop their root system in the early spring and fall. For this reason, fall application of nitrogen is paramount to a fertilization program because it will increase carbohydrate reserves and deeper root growth. Fall fertilization will also improve turf density by promoting greater rhizome and tiller growth.
In addition to regular fall fertilization (September - early October), a relatively new concept known as late fall application or late season application has received increasing attention in recent years for inclusion in many maintenance programs. Late fall fertilization is applied when shoot growth slows or approximately at the time of the last regular mowing of the season.
Nitrogen applied at this time greatly enhances the production of carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are stored for use the following growing season, providing early spring green-up and an energy source for turf grasses to recuperate from environmental and mechanical stress.
Another advantage of late fall fertilization is that it reduces the need for high amounts of spring-applied nitrogen. Excessive "spring" fertilization can actually reduce carbohydrate reserves and root development by stimulating rapid shoot growth. This is because growing shoots take priority over roots for carbohydrate utilization.
Both spring and summer fertilization should be used to maintain the color and density produced with fall fertilization the previous year. Fertilization at these times should not produce succulent plant tissue which can increase the severity of turf grass diseases and reduce the plant's ability to withstand heat, drought, mowing or wear stresses.
Application of potassium will greatly contribute to the hardiness of the plant. Potassium increases rooting, promotes wear tolerance, increases drought tolerance and decreases proneness to disease. In addition, potassium will help to "temper" the stimulating effects of nitrogen applications.
WARM-SEASON GRASSES
In contrast, most of the root growth in the warm season grasses, such as bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, centipedegrass, and St. Augustine grass, occurs during the spring and summer. Fertilization during these periods will stimulate root growth. However, only moderate applications of fertilizer should be made in early spring in areas where warm-season grasses experience winter dormancy.
Bermudagrass and St. Augustine grass are subject to spring root dieback following spring green-up. Heavy fertilization during early spring may result in an additional stress during this critical survival period.
Like cool-season turf grasses, warm-season turf grasses accumulate carbohydrate reserves in the fall when shoot growth activity slows. Care must be taken with the timing of fall fertilization since it may decrease low temperature hardiness if applied late. Maintaining adequate potassium levels in fall will increase the tolerance to low temperature.
As with cool-season turf grasses, indiscriminate use of nitrogen fertilization in the summer can increase injury of warmseason grass subjected to disease or environmental stress. As mentioned previously, maintaining adequate soil potassium levels will aid warm-season turf grass in its tolerance of heat, cold, mowing and wear stresses, and reduce its susceptibility to turf grass diseases.
Mowing
PROPER MOWING IS ESSENTIAL
Grass mowing is a major time consuming operation in the maintenance of any turf grass area. Good mowing practices are an important factor contributing to a well-groomed appearance and the longevity of any turf grass area. The manner in which grass is mowed will greatly influence its health, vigor and density.
GROWTH HABITS AND CHARACTERISTICS
On the basis of growth type, grasses may be classified into three general groups: bunch type grasses, such as ryegrass and chewing fescue; stoloniferous grasses, such as creeping bentgrass; and rhizomatous grasses such as Kentucky bluegrass. Some grasses, such as bermudagrass and zoysia, spread by both rhizomes and stolons.
The grass leaf is remarkably adapted for intercepting a maximum of sun rays which are essential for photosynthesis. The long, flattened grass blades provide a maximum of exposure with a minimum amount of protoplasm, thus making efficient use of the living plant. A reduction in the plant leaf area exposed to sunlight reduces the plant's capacity to carry on photosynthetic activity. This is a vital and basic consideration in determining the frequency and height of cut of turf grasses.
The ability of grasses to withstand frequent and relatively close cutting is related to certain peculiarities of the grass family. Grasses exhibit basal growth, as opposed to terminal growth, found in most other plants. Basal growth means simply that growth initiates at the base rather than at the tip of the blade or stem. From a practical standpoint, this means that normal and frequent mowing does not cut off the growing areas of the grass leaf. Removal of too much leaf surface at any one cutting may, however, destroy some of the growing points.
HEIGHT OF CUT
The height at which a given perennial grass can be cut and still survive for extended periods is directly related to its ability to produce sufficient leaf surface for the photosynthetic activity required for its growth. turf grass species vary greatly in tolerance to cutting height. The cutting height tolerance of a given species or cultivar is a function of the growth habit characteristics.
SUGGESTED RANGE OF CUTTING HEIGHT
| Grass |
Growth Height |
Cutting Range in Inches |
| Kentucky Bluegrass: |
Medium |
1 to 2-1/2 |
| Blue/Rye: |
Medium |
1 to 2-1/2 |
| Ryegrass (Turf Type): |
Medium High |
1-1/2 to 2-1/2 |
| Tall Fescue: |
High |
2 to 3 |
| Bermudagrass: |
Low |
1/2 to 1 |
| St. Augustinegrass: |
High |
2 to 3 |
| Creeping Bentgrass: |
Very Low |
1/4 to 1/2 |
FREQUENCY OF CUT
Frequency of mowing is an important consideration in the maintenance program. Infrequent mowing allows the grass to elongate to such a degree that any subsequent mowing removes an excessive amount of leaf surface. At no time should clipping amounts in excess of 1 /4 to 1 /3 of the total leaf surface be removed at a given mowing. Removal of larger amounts of leaf surface will result in a physiological shock to the plant, cause excessive graying or browning of the leaf tips, and greatly curtail the photosynthetic production of food with a resultant depletion of root reserves. In addition, the accumulation of excessive clippings may smother the grass and provide excellent environmental conditions for disease organisms and insects.
STATE OF GROWTH
The stage of growth of turf grass plays a major role in mowing practices. Young, tender growth in the Spring is generally soft and succulent. The moisture content of young, immature turf grass is much higher than that of mature grass. Tender young grass must be cut with a very sharp, well adjusted mower to avoid mechanical damage, and the early growth must be cut frequently to avoid the problems associated with high moisture.
Mowing wet grass should be avoided as much as possible. Dry grass cuts more easily, does not ball up and clog the mower and gives a much finer appearance.
Mowing practices during the early stages of growth exert a material influence on the density of turf grass. Cutting heights slightly lower than normal during early Spring will encourage lateral growth which, in turn, promotes density and helps prevent weed invasion.
SELECTION OF THE MOWER
The proper type and size of mower is important in maintaining any turf grass area. Good mowers are characterized by high maneuverability, easy adjustment, durability and adequate horsepower for the size and usage expected.
Four basic types of mowers are available - reel, rotary, sickle bar, and vertical. Choice of a given type will be governed by the particular duties the unit will be expected to perform. Each type has certain advantages and limitations which should be carefully considered before final selection of the mower is made. Mowing is not a simple operation to be regarded merely as a means of removing excess growth.
It is a maintenance practice which has a far-reaching effect on the appearance and long life of any turf grass area.
It is essential that all types of mowing equipment be kept sharp and in good operating condition. Dull, improperly adjusted equipment not only destroys the aesthetic value of the area, but also bruises the leaf tips, thus providing ready access for diseases and insects.